Recent bans on high street fashion advertisements featuring models perceived as “unhealthily thin” have prompted industry experts to warn about a potential resurgence of the “super skinny” trend.
This aesthetic, characterized by models with gaunt faces and visible bones, was prominent in the 1990s and early 2000s. However, it had been largely supplanted in recent years by the body positivity movement, which celebrates diverse body shapes.
Zara, Next, and Marks & Spencer have all had advertisements banned in recent months due to models who “appeared unhealthily thin.” The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) has informed the BBC that it has observed a “definite uptick” in complaints regarding such advertisements.
The ASA reported receiving approximately five to six complaints of this nature per week in 2023. However, in the two weeks following the ban of an M&S ad in July, that number surged to over 20.
In 2024, the ASA received 61 complaints concerning models’ weight, but only eight warranted formal investigation.
While the numbers are relatively small, the watchdog is closely monitoring the situation, alongside its efforts to clamp down on illegal advertisements for prescription-only weight loss drugs.
ASA guidelines stipulate that advertisers must ensure they do not present an unhealthy body image as aspirational.
Model and activist Charli Howard gained attention with a viral open letter after being dropped by her modeling agency for being “too big,” despite wearing a UK size six to eight.
A decade later, she states: “I think we’re on the cusp of seeing heroin chic return.”
The term “heroin chic” gained traction in the early 1990s, referring to models who were excessively thin, pale, and exhibited dark under-eye circles reminiscent of drug use.
Ms. Howard expresses concern that high street advertisements are as troubling as “thinspiration” images shared on social media.
In June, TikTok blocked search results for “skinnytok,” a hashtag that critics argue directs users towards content that “idolizes extreme thinness.”
“Some women are naturally thin, and that’s absolutely fine. But deliberately hiring models who appear unwell is deeply disturbing,” she said.
The ASA, in its recent rulings, did not determine any models to be unhealthy. In the case of Next, it acknowledged that in other shots of the same model, she appeared healthy. Instead, the ASA stated that the pose, styling, and camera angles contributed to the perception of thinness in the retailers’ advertisements.
M&S stated that the model’s pose was chosen to convey confidence and ease, not to emphasize slimness. Next maintained that the model, while slim, possessed a “healthy and toned physique.”
Zara, which had two advertisements banned last week, asserted that both models had medical certifications confirming their good health.
The ASA countered that shadows, poses, and a slicked-back hairstyle had been used to make the models appear thinner.
“Lighting definitely plays a role – it can bring out cheekbones, collarbones, and ribcages,” Ms. Howard said.
“After the body positivity movement of the 2010s, it was sadly inevitable fashion might swing back… and we know just how harmful it can be,” she said.
For model and yoga teacher Charlotte Holmes, the demand for thinner models is a recurring issue.
During her 20-year career, she observed “a brief moment of increased inclusivity” but still faced rejection for jobs due to “not being thin enough.”
“The body positivity movement raised awareness, but it didn’t fully change the system. Now, it feels like we’re back where we started,” she says.
The 36-year-old was crowned Miss England in 2012 and placed fourth in Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model in 2010.
She believes “ultra-thin” has always remained the “silent standard” for models.
“Terms like ‘heroin chic’ and trends like ‘skinnytok’ show how quickly harmful ideals can resurface. It’s not progress, it’s repetition,” she says.
Fashion journalist and consultant Victoria Moss does not believe we are on the verge of a “heroin chic” revival, but rather connects the trend to the growing popularity of weight loss injections.
“What’s happening at the moment across broader culture is about thinness being held up as a moral health imperative, driven by the fervour over GLP-1 weight loss medication,” she says.
Ms. Moss acknowledged that many celebrities, including Kim Kardashian and Oprah Winfrey, have visibly lost weight.
However, she still considers it unusual to see very slim models in High Street fashion campaigns, suggesting it is “more a catwalk phenomenon.”
“I think in all these cases the models have been very young, it must be incredibly upsetting for them to become the focus of these banned adverts. Many women are naturally very slim and it is wrong to cast aspersions,” she says.
Simone Konu-Rae, stylist and senior lecturer in fashion communication at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts, London, argues that while it’s crucial to “appreciate that the human body comes in a range of shapes and sizes,” being thin has “simply never went away”.
“High Street brands use runway models to elevate their collections,” she believes.
“The High Street is saying ‘look, we have the same model as your favourite luxury brand, and our products look just as good at a fraction of the price’,” she adds.
Ms. Konu-Rae suggests that the issue is not that the models are unhealthy, but rather that their body type is “not the norm for many people, and trying to achieve this body type can be harmful.”
“Showing more body diversity is key to showing people they can be fashionable and stylish without having to change who they are,” she says.
Personal stylist Keren Beaumont suggests that the resurgence of 1990s fashion – such as ultra-low-rise jeans and strappy slip tops – could be a contributing factor.
“With these re-emerging trends in silhouettes, we see hip bones and chests exposed and in keeping with the original presentations of these silhouettes, these are being shown on very, very thin models,” she says.
“My hope is that the recent imagery from Next, M&S and Zara will be a reminder to brands to maintain the diversity we have seen in models in recent years and not to regress back to outdated standards.”
Matt Wilson at the ASA says the issue highlighted brands’ responsibilities and “the thoughtfulness they need to take”.
“Societally we know there’s a problem with eating disorders and we must continue to ban adverts that may cause harm.”
If you are concerned about the issues raised in this article, help and support is available via the BBC Action Line.
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