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Bali, the celebrated tropical paradise of Indonesia, has long captivated tourists from around the globe.
However, a growing number of visitors are experiencing disillusionment, most recently, traveler Zoe Rae.
“Since landing in Bali, something for us has just not felt quite right,” she disclosed in a YouTube video filmed from her hotel room in July.
“We arrived in Bali with high expectations, influenced by the idyllic experiences shared across social media.”
She further elaborated, “If you captured a photo of the coffee shop and then zoomed out, you would witness the true reality.”
Ms. Rae refrained from detailing the reality she observed and did not respond to inquiries from the BBC. Nevertheless, her experience was unsettling enough to prompt her to book an impromptu flight to Dubai to continue her wedding anniversary celebration.
One need not search far for corroborating accounts.
Social media platforms are replete with posts contrasting “expectations versus reality” in Bali.
Images of diners savoring the sunset at a beachside restaurant juxtapose with the piles of refuse along the weathered stairs leading to it.
Bikini-clad poses in front of cascading waterfalls are contrasted with the serpentine queues of tourists awaiting their turn on slippery rocks.
Picturesque alfresco smoothies served with bamboo straws stand in stark contrast to the soot-emitting motorcycles gridlocked on congested roads.
Millions journey to Bali annually, seeking the spiritual Shangri-La popularized by the memoir and film “Eat, Pray, Love.”
However, they are often met with throngs of people, incessant traffic, and a cacophony of construction, all intensified by the post-pandemic surge in tourism.
The mounting strain on the island has elicited considerable discontent. Recent events took a somber turn when more than a dozen individuals perished in unusual floods. Officials attributed the exacerbation of the situation to inadequate waste management and unchecked urban development.
The local government has since declared restrictions on new construction. However, many perceive these measures as insufficient and belated.
How did Bali, long revered as the “last paradise,” reach this critical juncture?
Western adventurers have been drawn to Bali since the early 20th century, when it was regarded as an exotic and remote locale, characterized by Hindu temples and verdant rice fields.
Spirituality and reverence for nature are deeply ingrained in Balinese culture: monkeys, cows, and birds are considered sacred, ancient trees are believed to harbor spirits, and Mount Batur, a popular trekking destination, is thought to be protected by a goddess.
Bali was “one of the earliest places where discussions of utopia, profound beauty, and culture emerged,” according to Gisela Williams, a Berlin-based travel writer who has visited the island since the 1990s.
“The Balinese Hindu culture has cultivated this enduring myth of the place.”
Over the past decade, tourism to the island has surged dramatically, from 3.8 million visitors in 2014 to 6.3 million last year.
This year is poised to break records, with projections indicating the island will welcome over seven million international tourists.
Contemporary Bali is renowned for its beach clubs and surf houses, rather than its unique traditions or idyllic charm.
Alcohol is readily available, and more revealing attire is generally tolerated compared to other regions of Indonesia. Furthermore, most visitors seek to immerse themselves in Bali’s opulent hotels, villas, and spas.
“A significant number of Westerners are capitalizing on the affordability of a luxurious lifestyle,” Ms. Williams observes. “Since the advent of social media, the understanding of a place has become very superficial… People simply see an image and then proceed to visit.”
Zoe Rae’s disappointment with the reality she encountered in Bali underscores the idealized image held by many casual tourists.
In response to Ms. Rae’s post, Hollie Marie, a British content creator residing in Bali, cautioned in a TikTok video that “relying solely on Instagram for information about Bali will provide a distorted perception of the island itself.”
“The issue with Bali is that individuals often confine themselves to specific areas, seeking out aesthetically pleasing cafes and Instagrammable locations. In doing so, they overlook the fact that Bali is an island of profound cultural richness,” Ms. Marie explained to the BBC.
Those who reside there or have ventured beyond the typical tourist destinations can attest to Bali’s enduring natural beauty, from dolphin-watching excursions and diving explorations to the verdant landscapes of the quieter northern region.
The island is “much, much more” than the “party destinations” frequented by tourists, according to Canny Claudya, who relocated to Bali from Jakarta, Indonesia’s capital.
“If you perceive Bali as overcrowded, you are simply not in the right locations.”
Nevertheless, locals acknowledge that their island has undergone significant changes due to the demands of tourism.
Upon hearing complaints that Bali is not the paradise travelers anticipated, some point out the inherent irony in such remarks.
“When tourists express their disappointment with Bali’s increasing congestion, they are, in fact, contributing to the congestion,” observes I Made Vikannanda, a Balinese researcher who advocates for the preservation of the island’s natural environment and its people.
“It’s akin to being stuck in traffic and lamenting the heavy traffic, while simultaneously being the driver of a car contributing to it,” he explained.
Ni Kadek Sintya, a twenty-two-year-old resident, reminisces about a time when she could leisurely ride her scooter along the tranquil roads of Canggu, passing rice paddies where she would pause for lunch.
Five years later, Canggu experiences some of the island’s worst traffic congestion. Ms. Sintya’s commute to her job at a wellness resort is now lined with villas and cafes, and she is accompanied by a chorus of impatient honking.
“I wouldn’t consider stopping, let alone resting, there,” she laments. “Now, whenever I pass the spot where I used to sit, I am overcome with a sense of sadness. I feel as though Bali is being eroded with each passing day.”
As tourism continues to grow, hotels, cafes, and bars have proliferated outward from the island’s heavily congested southern region.
The latest trendy destination is Canggu, a once-sleepy fishing village that has transformed into a magnet for surfers from around the world.
Canggu follows in the footsteps of other neighborhoods, from Uluwatu to Seminyak, formerly quiet backwaters that have been transformed as tourists seek out new “hidden gems.”
This migration has resulted in the emergence of trendy cafes, gyms, and co-working spaces along narrow rural roads.
Pererenan, situated to the north, is now being hailed as a more relaxed alternative to Canggu.
Further north, in the verdant forests of Ubud, resorts are marketing themselves as sanctuaries to escape the frenetic pace of the south.
“There is a real catch-22,” Ms. Marie acknowledges. “On the one hand, encouraging people to explore different areas is generally a positive thing… However, there is also a risk that this will incentivize construction everywhere.”
Furthermore, she adds, “People tend to treat Bali as though it were a playground.”
Hardly a month passes without reports of misbehaving tourists dominating headlines: there have been serious accidents involving individuals riding scooters while intoxicated or without helmets; foreigners have been deported for disrobing at sacred sites; and others have been involved in drunken altercations.
Adding to recent tensions is the influx of thousands of Russians and Ukrainians who have settled in Bali after fleeing the war.
The head of Indonesia’s National Narcotics Agency recently cautioned about a growing problem involving Russians and Ukrainians engaging in criminal activities in Bali.
Local resentment is intensifying, with social media users publicly shaming misbehaving tourists, even as the Balinese uphold their world-renowned hospitality.
“Many tourists assume that because they are the ones spending money on our island, we locals should be accepting of whatever they do,” says Ms. Sintya, who, like many of her generation, has come to rely on the stability of a career in tourism.
“It can feel as though I’m being trapped,” she expresses, “because our livelihoods depend on tourism. If we were to halt tourism, how would we survive?”
Despite the “uncontrolled growth” of tourism, Mr. Vikannanda, the researcher, believes that “the development of Bali and the preservation of natural harmony can still be achieved.”
“I remain optimistic, particularly with the involvement of young people.”
Indeed, businesses and activists have launched grassroots initiatives to promote sustainable development, ranging from waste management education to beach clean-up campaigns.
Authorities, who have been criticized for inadequate tourism regulation, are also endeavoring to improve the island’s environmental conditions.
Earlier this year, Bali implemented a ban on single-use plastics and issued behavioral guidelines for visitors, “to ensure that Bali’s tourism remains respectful, sustainable, and aligned with our local values.”
Police officers have been deployed to popular areas to ensure compliance with the regulations.
“The Indonesian government has come to the realization that Bali is a natural asset, not merely a tourist market to be exploited,” Maria Shollenbarger, travel editor at the Financial Times’ HTSI magazine, told the BBC.
“Bali serves as a crucible for the broader issue of overtourism,” she stated.
“Regardless of the destination, it is essential for travelers to recognize their responsibility to engage with the place in a responsible manner.”
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