“I felt like a princess,” says US teenager Brianna LeDoux, reflecting on her prom gown, a custom creation commissioned from Nigeria.
“I wanted my dress to stop people in their tracks,” she explained.
The 18-year-old from Florida, with Haitian and Dominican heritage, chose a striking black gown crafted from sequined and beaded lace, a fabric often featured in traditional Yoruba designs for coordinated celebratory attire.
“I didn’t just want a dress,” Brianna shared with the BBC.
“I wanted a story I could wear – something that said: ‘This is who I am, and this is where my roots run.'”
High-school proms in the US hold significant cultural weight, frequently romanticized in coming-of-age films, and provide a platform for students to express their identities and fashion sensibilities.
The event transcends a simple party, evolving into a spectacle that blends the glamour of a red carpet with a pivotal social milestone, offering many young women a powerful avenue for self-expression.
When Brianna posted a TikTok video showcasing herself in her African prom gown, she was unprepared for the overwhelmingly positive response, with her post quickly going viral and now boasting over 1.1 million views.
This enthusiasm underscores a growing trend driving demand for bespoke outfits distinguished by bold designs and unique embellishments.
Originating as a TikTok and Instagram trend, where individuals like Brianna proudly displayed their garments, this phenomenon has blossomed into a thriving industry connecting fashion designers in Africa with young people across the globe.
The average price for a prom dress made in Africa ranges from $600 to $1,000 (£440 to £740), contingent on the complexity of the design, fabric selections, and embellishments. Exclusive, custom-made luxury pieces can exceed $1,500.
While this may seem costly, it remains significantly more affordable than commissioning a custom garment in the US, where prices begin around $3,500 and can escalate considerably based on the designer and materials.
The BBC spoke with five fashion designers in Nigeria and Ghana who collectively fulfilled over 2,800 prom dress orders for the 2025 season, with the majority destined for the US.
Designer Shakirat Arigbabu and her team, based in Ibadan, a city in southwestern Nigeria, were responsible for 1,500 of these orders.
She has successfully carved out a niche for herself despite the prom tradition not being widely practiced in her own country.
“Ninety-eight percent of the dresses we made went to the US. We were working in shifts just to meet deadlines,” Ms. Arigbabu explained.
Her business, Keerah’s Fashion Cave, employs 60 full-time staff, with at least 130 contract staff brought in during peak periods.
In 2019, when she received her first major prom order, she had 50 dresses to deliver. By 2024, orders surpassed 500, and this year, that number tripled.
While those wearing the gowns may be enjoying the post-prom glow, the designers are already back at work.
Every July, Ms. Arigbabu’s team of tailors begins preparations for the following year, cutting corset bases, sketching silhouettes, and sourcing fabrics.
“It’s not seasonal anymore; it’s an entire cycle. Prom consumes everything,” she said enthusiastically.
Business has also surged for designer Victoria Ani and her workshop in Uyo, southeastern Nigeria. She reports shipping over 200 gowns to New York, New Jersey, and California.
She entered this market in 2022 and now employs a team of eight. Completing a single gown takes three to seven days, depending on the design, she said.
Ms. Ani believes that choosing an African designer represents a cultural statement.
“They say there is a sense of pride when they can say: ‘My dress came from Nigeria,'” she stated. “We had about three clients who won ‘best dressed’ and two who were prom queens.”
Popular styles include corseted bodices, high slits, feathered trains, detachable capes, and beaded sleeves. Some designs are inspired by Met Gala themes, Yoruba bridal aesthetics, or Afrofuturist visions.
“We get requests like ‘Coachella queen’ or ‘Cinderella but African,'” said Accra-based Ghanaian designer Efua Mensah, noting that prom season has become a reliable sales cycle for businesses like hers.
Nian Fisher, 17, from Miami, Florida, describes the experience as “unique.”
She found her designer on Instagram, drawn to their 200,000-strong following and “work ethic that goes above and beyond; they don’t do the bare minimum.”
All arrangements were made via WhatsApp, including a live video call where a tailor in Nigeria guided her and her mother through taking measurements.
“They made sure every number was perfect so my dress would fit like a glove,” she explained.
When the emerald gown arrived, “everyone was amazed,” Nian said.
“The veil dragged across the floor, the fabric was heavy, and people kept saying: ‘Wow… a beautiful black queen.'”
Her mother, Tonya Haddly, admitted she was nervous about ordering from abroad.
“But when I saw that train flowing from her head to the floor and catching the light, I knew instantly this was not made in America.”
Social media has emerged as a meeting place for US teenagers and African fashion designers, who are capitalizing on this market opportunity.
When Memphis high schooler Trinity Foster, 18, began searching for a prom dress, she wanted something “rare to see” in the US and discovered it on TikTok from a designer based in Lagos.
Despite having never worn a super-formal gown before, only loose sundresses, Trinity trusted the designer’s guidance, settling on a fitted look with “at least one over-the-top piece.”
The two-week process was smooth, the vacuum-sealed package nerve-wracking to open, but inside was a perfectly fitting gown that made her feel “like Tiana” on prom night – a reference to Disney’s first African-American princess.
“I was super excited… happy we didn’t have to send it back or anything,” she said.
Her Instagram post garnered positive comments, inquisitive questions, and numerous inquiries about the designer.
The hashtag #AfricanPromDress now boasts more than 61 million views on TikTok.
“Instagram brings the sales,” Ms. Arigbabu stated. “TikTok brings the fame.”
For the Nigerian designer, most orders are initiated through Instagram DMs, after potential clients have perused photos of dresses tagging her brand and then reached out.
However, social media also introduces complications.
Ms. Arigbabu recounted instances of frustrated clients who aired their grievances publicly instead of contacting her directly: “One girl said: ‘I don’t want it resolved; I want to go viral.'”
Efua Mensah, a designer in Accra who shipped 404 dresses to the US this year, noted: “Sometimes, dresses arrive late due to customs issues or courier backlog.”
At times, they are simply overwhelmed. “There are days we are working 20 hours fixing one gown while packaging another,” she said.
Nonetheless, designers report that most clients are satisfied, often filming detailed unboxing videos, tagging the brand, and contributing to heightened visibility and increased orders.
African designers who spoke to the BBC indicated that US prom dress orders constitute a significant portion of their annual revenue – in one instance, up to 25%.
With Ms. Arigbabu’s team in Ibadan already preparing for next year’s prom season, she mentioned that, for the first time, she will not have to lay off temporary staff.
However, the recently implemented 15% US tariff on goods imported from Nigeria presents an immediate challenge.
“The tariff will increase the cost, making them less competitive in the US market,” the designer stated.
While the higher price may impact sales, she is considering making slight adjustments, cutting costs, improving efficiency, and exploring alternative markets to remain competitive without unduly burdening her customers.
“Of course, I’m worried,” she admitted, reflecting the broader concerns among Nigerian businesses navigating the trade policy shift initiated by US President Donald Trump.
Another significant change will be a shift away from the previous model, where each dress was crafted only after an order was placed, to a ready-to-wear system, with garments available for immediate shipment.
Affordability remains a key consideration, and while less expensive than purchasing a comparable piece in the US, a prom dress still requires substantial financial resources.
As the market matures, payment methods are also becoming more sophisticated, with designers beginning to offer online payment plans to spread out the cost.
Reflecting on her experience, Brianna believes the cost was justified, as prom lived up to all her childhood expectations.
“I reminisce about prom a lot; it’s something girls dream about since childhood.”
“Honestly, even if my nails were ugly, my makeup was awful, and my hair wasn’t cute, as long as I was in that dress, I was fine.”
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