U.S. fashion designer Willy Chavarria has issued an apology after a collaborative shoe with Adidas Originals drew criticism for alleged “cultural appropriation.”
The Oaxaca Slip-On, the subject of the controversy, was inspired by traditional Mexican leather sandals known as huaraches, crafted by Indigenous artisans.
Among those who voiced concerns was the President of Mexico, with criticisms focusing on the shoe’s reported manufacture in China without due consultation with or credit given to the communities that originated the design.
In a statement provided to the BBC, Chavarria stated: “I am deeply sorry that the shoe was appropriated in this design and not developed in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community.” The BBC has reached out to Adidas for comment.
Cultural appropriation is generally understood as “the unacknowledged or inappropriate adoption of the customs, practices, ideas, of one people or society by members of a typically more dominant people or society.”
President Claudia Sheinbaum of Mexico addressed the issue at a press conference, noting that “Big companies often take products, ideas and designs from Indigenous communities.”
President Sheinbaum further commented, “We are looking at the legal part to be able to support them.”
Mexico’s Deputy Culture Minister, Marina Nunez, indicated that Adidas has contacted Oaxacan officials to discuss “restitution to the people who were plagiarised.”
Promotional images of the controversial black, open-toe footwear have been removed from both the brand’s and Chavarria’s social media platforms.
Chavarria’s statement included a personal reflection: “The intention was always to honor the powerful cultural and artistic spirit of Oaxaca and its creative communities – a place whose beauty and resistance have inspired me. The name Oaxaca is not just a word – its living culture, its people, and its history.”
He reiterated his regret for not engaging the Oaxacan community directly in the design process.
“This falls short of the respect and collaborative approach that Oaxaca, the Zapotec community of Villa Hidalgo Yalalag, and its people deserve,” he stated.
“I know love is not just given – it is earned through action.”
Prior to this, Chavarria held the position of Senior Vice President of Design at Calvin Klein until 2024 and currently serves as the founder and Chief Creative Officer of his own label.
Adidas has yet to respond to the BBC’s request for comment.
According to a report by the Associated Press, Adidas responded to Mexican authorities in a letter on Friday.
The company reportedly stated that it “deeply values the cultural wealth of Mexico’s Indigenous people and recognises the relevance” of criticisms and requested a meeting to discuss how to “repair the damage” to Indigenous communities.
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