The western Indian town of Kolhapur has unexpectedly found itself in the global spotlight, as thousands of local artisans, who meticulously handcraft traditional leather footwear, are collectively accusing luxury fashion house Prada of design plagiarism and a lack of proper attribution.
In Sadashiv Sanake’s dimly lit workshop, the rhythmic pounding of his hammer serves as a testament to the arduous labor involved in creating the iconic Kolhapuri leather sandals.
“I learned the craft as a child,” he shared with the BBC. He explained that a full day’s work yields only “eight to 10 pairs” of these sandals, which retail for a modest $8-10.
Barely 5,000 artisans in Kolhapur remain in this profession – a cottage industry struggling to compete with mechanization, hampered by challenging work conditions and meager wages.
Therefore, it came as no surprise when Italian luxury brand Prada unveiled a new line of footwear strikingly similar to Kolhapuri sandals, without acknowledging the design’s origin, inciting outrage among local artisans.
The response was immediate. Social media platforms were flooded with accusations of cultural appropriation, leading Prada to release a statement recognizing the sandals’ heritage.
Now, local politicians and industry associations are lending their support to the artisans, advocating for greater recognition of the craft and its cultural significance.
Mr. Sanake was unaware of Prada’s collection until the BBC presented him with a video. Upon learning that the sandals could retail for hundreds of pounds in luxury markets, he questioned, “Do they have gold in them?”
Prada has not disclosed the price, but its other sandals are priced between £600 and £1,000 in the UK, according to its website.
The earliest records of Kolhapuri sandals date back to the 12th Century.
“These sandals were initially crafted by members of the marginalized Charmakar (cobbler) community, also known as chamars,” explained Kavita Gagrani, a history professor at the New College in Kolhapur.
Chamar is a derogatory caste term used to describe Dalits (formerly known as untouchables) who work with animal hides.
“However, in the early 20th Century, the craft flourished when Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, the then ruler of Kolhapur, granted royal patronage to this community,” Ms. Gagrani added.
Today, approximately 100,000 artisans across India are involved in the trade, with an industry value exceeding $200 million, according to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture (MACCIA), a leading industry trade group.
Yet, the majority continue to work in unorganized settings under poor conditions.
“I never received an education. This is all I know, and I earn about $4-5 a day, depending on the number of orders,” shared 60-year-old Sunita Satpute.
Women like her are crucial, particularly in hand-engraving intricate patterns, but they are not adequately compensated for their extensive labor, she stated.
This is why Sunita’s children are not interested in continuing the craft.
Not far from her workshop is Kolhapur’s famous chappal gully, or sandal lane, a collection of storefronts, many of which are struggling to stay in business.
“Leather has become very expensive, increasing our costs,” said Anil Doipode, one of the first sellers to open a shop there.
Traditionally, artisans used cow and buffalo hide to make these sandals. However, since 2014, when the Hindu nationalist Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) came to power, there have been numerous reports of vigilantes – self-appointed protesters or activists – cracking down on alleged cow slaughter, sometimes resorting to physical violence. Cows are considered sacred by Hindus.
In 2015, the state of Maharashtra banned the slaughter of cows and the sale and consumption of beef, forcing artisans to rely on buffalo leather sourced from neighboring states, which increased production costs.
Traditional sellers also struggle to compete with the influx of synthetic copies in the market.
“Customers want cheaper sandals and cannot always discern the difference,” said Rohit Balkrishna Gavali, a second-generation Kolhapuri sandal seller.
Industry experts assert that the controversy highlights the necessity for a stronger institutional framework to protect artisans’ rights.
In 2019, the Indian government granted Kolhapuri sandals Geographical Indication (GI) status – a mark of authenticity that protects its name and design within India, preventing unauthorized use by external parties.
However, there is no global binding law preventing other countries or brands from aesthetic imitation.
Aishwarya Sandeep, a Mumbai-based advocate, suggests that India could raise the issue at the World Trade Organization under its TRIPS (Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights) agreement, of which it is a signatory.
But the system is cumbersome, expensive, and often lacks enforceability, both in India and abroad, she adds.
Lalit Gandhi, the president of MCCIA, states that his organization plans to patent the Kolhapuri sandal design, hoping to establish a legal precedent for future cases.
Some argue that genuine change can only occur when India begins to view its traditional heritage differently.
“It’s about ethical recognition. India must push for royalty-sharing and co-branding,” states Ritu Beri, a renowned designer. “The more pride we take in our culture, the less we will be exploited.”
This is not the first instance of a global fashion brand being accused of appropriating Indian handicrafts.
Numerous major labels have featured Indian fabrics and embroidery with minimal or no collaboration with the artists. “Consider Chikankari (a delicate hand-embroidery style from Lucknow, a city in northern India), Ikat (a cloth-dyeing technique), and mirror work; they have all been repeatedly used. The artisans remain unseen while brands profit from their inspiration,” Ms. Beri notes.
Mr. Gandhi, however, believes that Prada’s endorsement of Kolhapuri sandals could also benefit artisans.
“Under their label, the value [of Kolhapuri sandals] will increase significantly,” he says. “But we want a portion of that profit to be shared with the artisans for their betterment.”
Rohit Balkrishna Gavali, a sandal seller in Kolhapur, agrees and has already observed a change.
“The design Prada used wasn’t even very popular, but now people are asking for it, with clients from Dubai, the US, and Qatar placing orders,” he explains.
“Sometimes, controversy can be helpful,” he adds. “But it would be beneficial if it also brought respect and improved prices for those who keep this tradition alive.”
The matter is unlikely to be resolved quickly.
Currently, a petition has been filed in a high court, demanding that Prada pay damages and compensation to the artisans, along with a court-supervised collaboration between the luxury brand and artisan associations.
Prada stated to the BBC that it is in discussions with MCCIA on this matter.
Mr. Gandhi, its chief, says a meeting between the two parties is scheduled for next week.
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