For Kerry Clayton, navigating grocery shopping and meal preparation presents a significant challenge. She and her 10-year-old son adhere to strict dietary restrictions: she avoids gluten, citrus, and tomatoes; he requires a dairy- and wheat-free diet.
The family frequents multiple stores weekly to source suitable free-from options, relying on adaptable meals like jacket potatoes and pasta, and preparing cakes and cookies from scratch. This, in addition to managing two online jewelry businesses and raising another child, necessitates approximately an hour of weekly baking.
M&S’s March launch of its “Only” range, featuring products with six or fewer ingredients, was hailed by Ms. Clayton as “a dream,” despite the higher prices. A 325g box of their single-ingredient cornflakes costs £2.50, compared to 90p for a 500g standard box.
“For standard shoppers, it seems expensive, but for us with allergies, it’s typical,” explains Ms. Clayton, from Kent. “Finding enjoyable foods we can all eat is difficult. If you’re accustomed to standard cereal, you might not appreciate the alternatives or the extra cost, but for those needing low-ingredient food, it’s perfect.”
Ms. Clayton’s situation reflects a broader trend. More retailers and brands are following M&S’s lead, driven by growing concerns about ultra-processed foods (UPF), fueled by the 2023 release of Dr. Chris Van Tulleken’s book, “Ultra-Processed People.”
While the classification of UPF remains debated, less-processed options are gaining popularity. Matthew Hopkins, founder of IND!E, a platform assisting small food brands, reports a 40% surge in retailer inquiries regarding fewer-ingredient products over the past year, with increased orders from Ocado, Selfridges, and John Lewis.
“Retailers are responding to consumer demand for simpler, more recognizable ingredient lists,” says Mr. Hopkins from Harrogate.
Plant-based brand THIS, addressing consumer concerns regarding processed meat alternatives, launched its “Super Superfoods” range. Featuring natural ingredients like beans, seeds, and mushrooms, it’s designed as a meal’s protein component.
Surveys show shoppers are avoiding meat substitutes due to processing and additives. Luke Byrne, THIS’s innovation and sustainability director, acknowledges consumer confusion.
“We understand our classification as a UPF, but that doesn’t reflect our products’ nutritional value. They’re high in protein and fiber, low in saturated fat and sugar,” says Mr. Byrne from London. “It’s frustrating; the focus has shifted from the crucial aspect: nutrition.”
This raises the question: has the public been misled into believing all ultra-processed foods are unhealthy and all unprocessed foods are beneficial? Nutritionist Dr. Laura Wyness believes so, criticizing M&S’s “Only” range for prioritizing “hype over health.”
“Consumers may seek shorter ingredient lists, but omitting fortified nutrients is detrimental to public health. We should promote nutrient-dense foods and fortify products like plant milks and cereals,” argues Dr. Wyness from Edinburgh. “This shows the customer isn’t always right, due to misinformation.”
Dr. Jibin He, head of science at Teesside University, points out that UPF isn’t a reliable indicator of healthiness. Processing is essential for food safety, shelf life, and waste reduction.
He cites tofu: a healthy protein source, yet potentially categorized as UPF if containing additives. He advises manufacturers to simplify formulas, utilize new processing technologies, and emphasize nutritional benefits and justify higher prices.
Premium porridge brand 3Bears, partnered with footballer Harry Kane, exemplifies this with its low-ingredient cereals. Their oat cinnamon loops (seven ingredients) cost £3.99 for 250g, compared to M&S’s five-ingredient hoops (£2.50 for 300g) and Waitrose’s 22-ingredient hoops (£1.25 for 375g).
3Bears co-founder Caroline Nichols notes the challenges and increased costs of creating fewer-ingredient products.
The UPF debate seems less relevant for some sectors. The UK confectionery market remains strong at approximately £14.8bn, despite the high proportion of UPF products. Little Moons, an ice cream brand, exports globally and sees no immediate need to reduce ingredients.
Ross Farquhar, Little Moons’ director, believes treat brands can withstand the UPF focus. “Certain ingredients are necessary for stability in the supply chain. Unless we all make ice cream at home, off-the-shelf ice cream remains vital,” says Mr. Farquhar from London. “M&S’s chocolate bars are likely delicious, but cater to a niche audience, and large confectionery brands won’t compromise core product attributes.”
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